/* forthetemples - design tokens from Claude Design v2 (HANDOFF.md) */
:root{
  --ground:#EFE7D8; --panel:#F7F2E9; --panel-2:#FBF8F2; --panel-3:#F2EADB;
  --hairline:rgba(122,85,32,.22); --hairline-soft:rgba(122,85,32,.13);
  --text:#14100D; --text-2:#3E362C; --text-3:#6E655A;
  --gold-ink:#7A5520; --gold-bright:#B8873F;
  --foil:linear-gradient(101deg,#A97C31,#EBCE8B 42%,#C9A24E 58%,#A97C31);
  --foil-text:#2A1D08; --stone:#E4DACA;
  --night:#0E1428; --glow:#F0B75E; --dusk-mid:#E8DCC6; --dusk-warm:#B98F63;
  --serif:'Cormorant Garamond',Georgia,serif;
  --sans:'Instrument Sans',system-ui,-apple-system,sans-serif;
  --wide:1280px;
}
:root[data-theme="dark"],body[data-theme="dark"]{
  --ground:#0A0806; --panel:#16120E; --panel-2:#1D1813; --panel-3:#221C15;
  --hairline:rgba(201,162,78,.24); --hairline-soft:rgba(201,162,78,.13);
  --text:#F7F2E9; --text-2:#D8CFC0; --text-3:#9A9084;
  --gold-ink:#C9A24E; --gold-bright:#E9CE92; --foil-text:#23180A;
  --stone:#2B241C; --dusk-mid:#5E4A34; --dusk-warm:#8A6541;
}
*{box-sizing:border-box}
html,body{margin:0;padding:0}
body{background:var(--ground);color:var(--text);font-family:var(--sans);font-size:15px;line-height:1.7;
  -webkit-font-smoothing:antialiased}
img{max-width:100%;height:auto}
a{color:inherit}
.ft-wrap{max-width:var(--wide);margin:0 auto;padding:0 clamp(16px,3.6vw,54px)}
.ft-eyebrow{font-size:10.5px;letter-spacing:.24em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--gold-ink);
  display:block;margin-bottom:14px}
h1,h2,h3{font-family:var(--serif);font-weight:300;line-height:1.06;margin:0 0 .4em;color:var(--text)}
h1{font-size:clamp(34px,5vw,66px)}
h2{font-size:clamp(26px,3.4vw,44px);font-weight:400}
h3{font-size:clamp(20px,2.2vw,28px);font-weight:400}
/* an h1 that must LOOK like an h2 (semantic h1 per page, same visual rhythm) */
.ft-h1-as-h2{font-size:clamp(26px,3.4vw,44px);font-weight:400}
p{margin:0 0 1.1em;color:var(--text-2)}

/* ---------- header / nav ---------- */
.ft-header{position:sticky;top:0;z-index:60;background:color-mix(in srgb,var(--ground) 92%,transparent);
  backdrop-filter:blur(12px);border-bottom:1px solid var(--hairline-soft)}
.ft-header-in{max-width:var(--wide);margin:0 auto;padding:14px clamp(16px,3.6vw,54px);
  display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:20px}
/* brand | nav | tools  - the toggle belongs at the end of the row, not mid-header */
.ft-brand{order:1}
.ft-nav{order:2;margin-left:auto}
.ft-header-tools{order:3}
.ft-brand{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:11px;text-decoration:none;flex-shrink:0}
.ft-brand svg{display:block}
.ft-brand-txt{display:flex;flex-direction:column;line-height:1}
.ft-brand-for{font-size:9px;letter-spacing:.28em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--gold-ink)}
.ft-brand-name{font-family:'Marcellus',Georgia,serif;font-size:22px;color:var(--text);letter-spacing:.01em}
.ft-nav{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:clamp(12px,1.8vw,26px)}
.ft-nav a{font-size:11.5px;letter-spacing:.13em;text-transform:uppercase;text-decoration:none;
  color:var(--text-2);white-space:nowrap;padding:6px 0;border-bottom:1px solid transparent}
.ft-nav a:hover,.ft-nav a[aria-current]{color:var(--gold-ink);border-bottom-color:var(--gold-bright)}
.ft-surprise{border:1px solid var(--hairline);border-radius:999px;padding:9px 18px !important;
  border-bottom:1px solid var(--hairline) !important}
.ft-surprise:hover{border-color:var(--gold-bright) !important}
.ft-burger{display:none;background:none;border:1px solid var(--hairline);border-radius:2px;
  color:var(--text);padding:9px 13px;font:600 11px/1 var(--sans);letter-spacing:.14em;
  text-transform:uppercase;cursor:pointer;min-height:44px}
@media (max-width:900px){
  .ft-nav{position:fixed;inset:0 0 auto 0;top:0;flex-direction:column;align-items:stretch;
    background:var(--panel);padding:80px 24px 28px;gap:0;transform:translateY(-100%);
    transition:transform .28s ease;box-shadow:0 20px 50px -20px rgba(20,16,13,.5);
    max-height:100vh;overflow:auto}
  .ft-nav[data-open="1"]{transform:translateY(0)}
  .ft-nav a{padding:15px 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--hairline-soft);font-size:13px;min-height:44px;
    display:flex;align-items:center}
  .ft-surprise{margin-top:16px;text-align:center;justify-content:center}
  .ft-burger{display:block;position:relative;z-index:70}
}

/* ---------- day / night toggle ---------- */
.ft-header-tools{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:10px;flex-shrink:0}
.ft-theme{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:8px;min-height:38px;padding:8px 14px;
  border:1px solid var(--hairline);border-radius:999px;background:transparent;color:var(--text-2);
  font:600 10.5px/1 var(--sans);letter-spacing:.16em;text-transform:uppercase;cursor:pointer;
  transition:border-color .2s ease,color .2s ease}
.ft-theme:hover{border-color:var(--gold-bright);color:var(--gold-ink)}
.ft-theme-dot{width:9px;height:9px;border-radius:50%;background:var(--gold-bright);
  box-shadow:inset -3px -1px 0 0 var(--ground);transition:box-shadow .25s ease,background .25s ease}
:root[data-theme="dark"] .ft-theme-dot{box-shadow:none;background:var(--glow)}
.ft-theme-txt{min-width:34px;text-align:left}
@media (max-width:900px){
  .ft-theme{min-height:44px;padding:10px 14px}
  .ft-theme-txt{display:none}
  .ft-theme{min-width:44px;justify-content:center}
}

/* ---------- buttons ---------- */
.ft-btn{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;gap:9px;
  min-height:44px;padding:15px 28px;border-radius:2px;font-size:12.5px;font-weight:600;
  letter-spacing:.11em;text-transform:uppercase;text-decoration:none;border:1px solid transparent;
  cursor:pointer;transition:filter .18s ease,border-color .18s ease}
.ft-btn--gold{background:var(--foil);color:var(--foil-text);
  box-shadow:0 1px 0 rgba(255,248,229,.6) inset,0 16px 34px -18px rgba(122,85,32,.7)}
.ft-btn--gold:hover{filter:brightness(1.07)}
.ft-btn--stone{border-color:var(--hairline);color:var(--text)}
.ft-btn--stone:hover{border-color:var(--gold-bright);color:var(--gold-ink)}
.ft-btn--glow{background:var(--glow);color:#1A1305;
  box-shadow:0 0 0 1px rgba(240,183,94,.5),0 18px 44px -18px rgba(240,183,94,.6)}
.ft-btn--glow:hover{filter:brightness(1.06)}
.ft-btn--night{border-color:rgba(240,183,94,.4);color:#F1E9DA}
.ft-btn--night:hover{border-color:var(--glow);color:var(--glow)}
.ft-quiet{font-size:12.5px;letter-spacing:.11em;text-transform:uppercase;text-decoration:none;
  color:var(--text-2);border-bottom:1px solid var(--hairline);padding-bottom:3px}
.ft-quiet:hover{color:var(--gold-ink);border-color:var(--gold-bright)}

/* ---------- chips ---------- */
.ft-chips{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:9px}
.ft-chip{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;min-height:34px;padding:7px 15px;border-radius:999px;
  border:1px solid var(--hairline);font-size:11px;letter-spacing:.12em;text-transform:uppercase;
  color:var(--text-2);text-decoration:none;background:transparent}
.ft-chip:hover{border-color:var(--gold-bright);color:var(--gold-ink)}
.ft-chip[aria-current]{background:var(--gold-ink);border-color:var(--gold-ink);color:var(--panel-2)}

/* ---------- the plate (category thumbnail, replaces photos) ---------- */
.ft-plate{position:relative;display:block;aspect-ratio:16/10;background:var(--panel-3);
  border-bottom:1px solid var(--hairline-soft);overflow:hidden;
  background-image:linear-gradient(var(--hairline-soft) 1px,transparent 1px),
                   linear-gradient(90deg,var(--hairline-soft) 1px,transparent 1px);
  background-size:22px 22px;background-position:center}
.ft-plate-in{position:absolute;inset:12px;border:1px solid var(--hairline-soft);
  display:flex;flex-direction:column;align-items:center;justify-content:center;gap:12px}
.ft-plate svg{width:clamp(46px,26%,74px);height:auto;color:var(--gold-ink);
  transition:color .2s ease,transform .3s ease}
.ft-plate-label{font-size:9.5px;letter-spacing:.2em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--gold-ink);
  opacity:.85}
.ft-plate-tick{position:absolute;width:9px;height:9px;border:0 solid var(--gold-bright);opacity:.5}
.ft-plate-tick.tl{top:6px;left:6px;border-top-width:1px;border-left-width:1px}
.ft-plate-tick.tr{top:6px;right:6px;border-top-width:1px;border-right-width:1px}
.ft-plate-tick.bl{bottom:6px;left:6px;border-bottom-width:1px;border-left-width:1px}
.ft-plate-tick.br{bottom:6px;right:6px;border-bottom-width:1px;border-right-width:1px}

/* ---------- TempleCard ---------- */
.ft-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fit,minmax(min(290px,100%),1fr));
  gap:clamp(20px,2.4vw,30px)}
.ft-card{display:flex;flex-direction:column;background:var(--panel);border:1px solid var(--hairline-soft);
  border-radius:3px;overflow:hidden;text-decoration:none;
  box-shadow:0 1px 2px rgba(36,29,24,.05);transition:box-shadow .25s ease,border-color .25s ease}
.ft-card:hover{border-color:var(--hairline);box-shadow:0 18px 40px -22px rgba(20,16,13,.45)}
.ft-card:hover .ft-plate svg{color:var(--gold-bright);transform:translateY(-2px)}
.ft-card-body{padding:18px 20px 20px;display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:8px;flex:1}
.ft-card-meta{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:10px;font-size:10px;letter-spacing:.16em;
  text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--text-3)}
.ft-card-tag{color:var(--gold-ink)}
.ft-card h3{font-size:23px;margin:0}
.ft-card-note{font-size:13.5px;line-height:1.65;color:var(--text-2);margin:0;flex:1}
.ft-card-actions{display:flex;gap:9px;padding-top:6px;flex-wrap:wrap}
.ft-card-actions .ft-btn{padding:11px 18px;font-size:11px;min-height:40px}

/* row layout */
.ft-rows{display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:12px}
.ft-row{display:grid;grid-template-columns:132px 1fr auto;gap:20px;align-items:center;
  background:var(--panel);border:1px solid var(--hairline-soft);border-radius:3px;
  padding:12px 18px 12px 12px;text-decoration:none}
.ft-row:hover{border-color:var(--gold-bright)}
.ft-row .ft-plate{aspect-ratio:3/2;border-bottom:0;border:1px solid var(--hairline-soft);border-radius:2px}
.ft-row .ft-plate-in{inset:7px}
.ft-row .ft-plate-label{display:none}
.ft-row h3{font-size:20px;margin:0 0 2px}
@media (max-width:640px){
  .ft-row{grid-template-columns:88px 1fr;gap:14px}
  .ft-row-actions{grid-column:1/-1}
}

/* ---------- breadcrumbs ---------- */
.ft-crumbs{padding-top:18px}
.ft-crumbs ol{list-style:none;display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px;margin:0;padding:0;
  font-size:11px;letter-spacing:.13em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--text-3)}
.ft-crumbs li+li::before{content:"/";margin-right:8px;color:var(--hairline)}
.ft-crumbs a{color:var(--text-3);text-decoration:none}
.ft-crumbs a:hover{color:var(--gold-ink)}
.ft-crumbs li[aria-current]{color:var(--gold-ink)}

/* ---------- hero ---------- */
.ft-hero{position:relative;background:#14100D;color:#FBF8F2;overflow:hidden;
  border-radius:3px;margin-top:18px;border:1px solid transparent}
:root[data-theme="dark"] .ft-hero{background:#161009;border-color:var(--hairline)}
.ft-hero::after{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0;
  background:radial-gradient(120% 100% at 20% 0%,rgba(233,206,146,.10),rgba(20,16,13,0) 60%);
  pointer-events:none}
.ft-hero-in{position:relative;z-index:2;padding:clamp(48px,7vw,110px) clamp(20px,4vw,64px)}
.ft-hero h1{color:#FBF8F2;max-width:23ch}
.ft-hero h1 em{font-style:italic;color:#F2DDAE}
.ft-hero .ft-eyebrow{color:#E9CE92}
.ft-hero-mark{position:absolute;right:clamp(16px,4%,64px);top:50%;transform:translateY(-50%);
  width:min(32%,330px);aspect-ratio:1;opacity:.10;color:#E9CE92;z-index:1;pointer-events:none}
@media (max-width:820px){.ft-hero-mark{display:none}}
.ft-hero-mark svg{width:100%;height:100%}
.ft-hero-actions{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:22px;flex-wrap:wrap;margin-top:26px}
/* the hero sits on ink, so quiet links there need the light treatment */
.ft-hero .ft-quiet,.ft-temple-hero .ft-quiet{color:#F1E9DA;border-color:rgba(241,233,218,.42)}
.ft-hero .ft-quiet:hover,.ft-temple-hero .ft-quiet:hover{color:#F2DDAE;border-color:#E9CE92}
.ft-night .ft-quiet{color:#F1E9DA;border-color:rgba(240,183,94,.45)}
.ft-night .ft-quiet:hover{color:var(--glow);border-color:var(--glow)}

/* search */
.ft-search{background:rgba(20,16,13,.46);backdrop-filter:blur(14px);
  border:1px solid rgba(233,206,146,.32);border-radius:3px;padding:22px;max-width:430px;
  display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:13px;margin-top:34px}
.ft-search label{font-size:10px;letter-spacing:.24em;text-transform:uppercase;color:#E9CE92}
.ft-search-row{display:flex;gap:9px}
.ft-search input{flex:1;min-height:44px;background:rgba(0,0,0,.3);color:#F7F2E9;
  border:1px solid rgba(233,206,146,.28);border-radius:2px;padding:11px 14px;font:inherit;font-size:14px}
.ft-search input::placeholder{color:rgba(247,242,233,.45)}
.ft-search input:focus{outline:2px solid var(--gold-bright);outline-offset:2px}

/* ---------- sections ---------- */
.ft-section{padding:clamp(46px,6vw,86px) 0}
.ft-section-head{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:flex-end;gap:28px;
  flex-wrap:wrap;margin-bottom:clamp(26px,3vw,42px)}
.ft-section-head p{max-width:46ch;margin:0;font-size:14px}
.ft-disclosure{font-size:12px;color:var(--text-3);max-width:52ch;line-height:1.6}

/* ---------- dusk ramp + night band ---------- */
.ft-dusk{height:clamp(80px,11vw,130px);
  background:linear-gradient(to bottom,var(--ground) 0%,var(--dusk-mid) 24%,var(--dusk-warm) 50%,#4C3D50 78%,#14182C 100%)}
.ft-night{background:var(--night);color:#F1E9DA;position:relative;overflow:hidden;
  padding:clamp(46px,6vw,74px) 0 clamp(52px,7vw,86px)}
.ft-night::before{content:"";position:absolute;inset:0;pointer-events:none;
  background:radial-gradient(70% 70% at 80% 0%,rgba(240,183,94,.14),rgba(14,20,40,0) 62%)}
.ft-night>*{position:relative;z-index:1}
.ft-night h2{color:#F7F2E9}
.ft-night p{color:#C9C2B4}
.ft-night .ft-eyebrow{color:var(--glow)}

/* ---------- temple page ---------- */
.ft-temple-hero{background:#14100D;color:#FBF8F2;border-radius:3px;overflow:hidden;position:relative;
  margin-top:18px;padding:clamp(52px,8vw,120px) clamp(20px,4vw,58px) clamp(30px,4vw,46px);
  border:1px solid transparent}
:root[data-theme="dark"] .ft-temple-hero{background:#161009;border-color:var(--hairline)}
.ft-temple-hero h1{color:#FBF8F2;margin-bottom:16px}
.ft-temple-hero .ft-eyebrow{color:#E9CE92}
.ft-temple-layout{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr minmax(300px,380px);
  gap:clamp(28px,4vw,56px);align-items:start;padding-top:clamp(34px,4vw,54px)}
@media (max-width:960px){.ft-temple-layout{grid-template-columns:1fr}}
.ft-lede{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:clamp(20px,2.3vw,27px);line-height:1.42;color:var(--text);
  margin-bottom:1em}
.ft-prose h2{font-size:clamp(22px,2.4vw,30px);margin-top:1.6em}
.ft-prose ul{padding-left:1.1em;color:var(--text-2)}
.ft-prose li{margin-bottom:.5em}
.ft-aside{position:sticky;top:92px;display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:14px}
.ft-actionbox{background:var(--panel-2);border:1px solid var(--hairline-soft);border-radius:3px;padding:20px}
.ft-actionbox .ft-btn--gold{width:100%}
.ft-actionlist{display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:9px;margin-top:14px}
.ft-actionlist a{display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:10px;
  min-height:44px;padding:12px 15px;border:1px solid var(--hairline);border-radius:2px;
  font-size:12px;letter-spacing:.09em;text-transform:uppercase;text-decoration:none;color:var(--text)}
.ft-actionlist a:hover{border-color:var(--gold-bright);color:var(--gold-ink)}
.ft-note{font-size:11.5px;color:var(--text-3);margin:10px 0 0;line-height:1.55}

/* quick facts strip */
.ft-facts{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fit,minmax(min(140px,100%),1fr));
  gap:1px;margin:0 0 2em;background:var(--hairline-soft);border:1px solid var(--hairline-soft);
  border-radius:3px;overflow:hidden}
.ft-facts>div{background:var(--panel-2);padding:14px 16px}
.ft-facts dt{font-size:9.5px;letter-spacing:.18em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--text-3);
  margin-bottom:5px}
.ft-facts dd{margin:0;font-family:var(--serif);font-size:20px;line-height:1.15;color:var(--text)}

/* sticky mobile tours bar */
.ft-sticky{display:none}
@media (max-width:1024px){
  .ft-sticky{display:block;position:fixed;left:0;right:0;bottom:0;z-index:80;
    background:color-mix(in srgb,var(--panel) 95%,transparent);backdrop-filter:blur(10px);
    border-top:1px solid var(--hairline);padding:10px 14px calc(10px + env(safe-area-inset-bottom))}
  .ft-sticky .ft-btn{width:100%}
  body.has-sticky{padding-bottom:78px}
}

/* ---------- stay22 ---------- */
.ft-stay{background:var(--panel-2);border:1px solid var(--hairline-soft);border-radius:3px;overflow:hidden}
.ft-stay-head{padding:14px 18px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--hairline-soft);
  font-size:10px;letter-spacing:.2em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--gold-ink)}
.ft-stay-body{padding:18px}
.ft-stay h4{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:21px;font-weight:400;margin:0 0 4px}
.ft-stay-dist{font-size:12.5px;color:var(--text-3);margin:0 0 14px}
.ft-stay-figs{display:flex;gap:26px;padding:13px 0;border-top:1px solid var(--hairline-soft);
  border-bottom:1px solid var(--hairline-soft);margin-bottom:14px}
.ft-stay-fig{display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:3px}
.ft-stay-fig span{font-size:9.5px;letter-spacing:.16em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--text-3)}
.ft-stay-fig strong{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:20px;font-weight:400;color:var(--text)}

/* ---------- footer ---------- */
.ft-footer{background:#0C0A08;color:#C9C2B4;padding:clamp(40px,5vw,64px) 0 26px;margin-top:0}
.ft-footer a{color:#C9C2B4;text-decoration:none;font-size:13px}
.ft-footer a:hover{color:var(--glow)}
.ft-footer-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.4fr repeat(3,1fr);gap:clamp(22px,3vw,44px)}
@media (max-width:820px){.ft-footer-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}}
@media (max-width:520px){.ft-footer-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr}}
.ft-footer h5,.ft-foot-h{font-size:10px;letter-spacing:.2em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--glow);
  margin:0 0 14px;font-weight:600;font-family:var(--sans)}
.ft-footer ul{list-style:none;margin:0;padding:0;display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:9px}

/* ---------- misc ---------- */
.ft-empty{text-align:center;padding:clamp(50px,8vw,90px) 20px}
.ft-az-letter{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:clamp(30px,4vw,50px);color:var(--gold-ink);
  border-bottom:1px solid var(--hairline);padding-bottom:8px;margin:44px 0 20px}
.ft-skip{position:absolute;left:-9999px}
.ft-skip:focus{left:12px;top:12px;z-index:200;background:var(--panel);color:var(--text);
  padding:12px 18px;border:1px solid var(--gold-bright);border-radius:2px}
:focus-visible{outline:2px solid var(--gold-bright);outline-offset:3px}
@media (prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){*{transition:none !important;animation:none !important}}

/* ---------- touch targets (WCAG 2.5.8): phone only, so desktop density is kept ---------- */
@media (max-width:900px){
  /* footer nav links: pad to a comfortable 44px row */
  .ft-footer ul{gap:0}
  .ft-footer li a{display:flex;align-items:center;min-height:44px;padding:4px 0}
  /* breadcrumbs */
  .ft-crumbs ol{gap:6px 10px;line-height:1}
  .ft-crumbs li{display:flex;align-items:center;min-height:36px}
  .ft-crumbs a{display:flex;align-items:center;min-height:36px}
  /* chips (a-z jumps, tradition filters, nightlife) */
  .ft-chip{min-height:44px;padding:10px 17px}
  /* quiet inline links */
  .ft-quiet{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;min-height:44px}
  /* the skip link when focused */
  .ft-skip:focus{min-height:44px;display:flex;align-items:center}
  /* card title links: the plate above is already a large target, but give the
     title its own comfortable row rather than a 28px text hitbox */
  .ft-card h3 a{display:block;padding:3px 0;min-height:34px}
  /* brand lockup */
  .ft-brand{min-height:44px}
}

/* visually hidden but available to assistive tech (keeps the heading outline valid) */
.ft-sr-only{position:absolute;width:1px;height:1px;padding:0;margin:-1px;overflow:hidden;
  clip:rect(0 0 0 0);clip-path:inset(50%);white-space:nowrap;border:0}
